Michael Fleming walks us through the fancier end of the butcher’s counter

What makes some cuts of meat more expensive than others?

The biggest factor here is the relative abundance or scarcity of the cuts present on the animal. More pricey cuts like fillets, loins and ribeyes make up a very small percentage of the overall animal, meaning there’s less available to meet demand. This drives the price up in relation to the more abundant cuts. Popularity and trendiness contribute, too; during times of economic growth, people often turn to the more expensive cuts, driving prices even higher. During recessional periods, cheaper cuts tend to become more popular.

Is the price of a particular cut always an indicator of quality?

If you’re talking about the quality of a fillet steak being higher than, say, shin beef, that’s not necessarily indicated by the price; cheap cuts can be of excellent quality, too. However, within one particular category — for example, pork shoulders — price can be indicative of how the animal was reared, fed, farmed and butchered. For example, you’ll pay more for free range or organic pork. In this sense, you do get the quality you pay for. I would say buying quality meat from a reputable butcher is worth paying that bit extra, for those who can afford it.

What are the most expensive cuts of pork?

Pork fillet, pork loin and a rack of pork.

What are the most expensive cuts of lamb?

Rack of lamb, the centre loin, and the noisette, also known as the eye.

I’ve heard that my butcher can ‘French trim’ a rack of lamb for me — what does
this mean?

French trimming (sometimes called Frenching) means removing the backbone and trimming down in between the bones of the rack of lamb, cutting tight to the bones so that they are better exposed. This is really down to aesthetics, but can make for a neater looking dish.

What are the most expensive cuts of beef?

Fillet steaks, ribeyes and striploins.

What is a chateaubriand?

Contrary to popular belief, chateaubriand is not a cut of meat. Rather, it is a method of preparation, using either a thick centre cut of the fillet or the head of the fillet. This typically weighs around 350g and is intended to serve two.

I’m having a romantic dinner for Valentine’s Day. What should I go for if I can’t afford fillet steaks but want something special?

If you’re dead set on a steak dinner, I would opt for good-quality ribeyes or sirloins. Alternatively, spend a little more on a nice organic chicken and do a posh roast chicken dinner — the flavour from an organic bird can be incredible. Quality fish can also make a lovely romantic main course that doesn’t break the bank.

What would you recommend for a dinner party? I need something that’s impressive and elegant but that won’t bankrupt me!

A fillet or rib of beef is always impressive and a good crowd-pleaser. A rack of lamb also makes a really beautiful centrepiece and has a fantastic ‘wow’ factor when you bring it to the table. Remember, you don’t need huge portions of meat; just make sure your side dishes are well thought out and complement the centrepiece you choose.

This column was originally published in Easy Food magazine. For recipe inspiration, visit www.easyfood.ie.